Everyone says a 0.4 mm nozzle is the perfect size for 3D printing.

But what if it’s holding your printer back?

What if you could print up to 40% faster, make stronger parts, and barely lose any detail — just by swapping a tiny piece of metal?

Today we’re breaking down the real-world differences between 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm, and 0.8 mm nozzles using controlled testing on the Bambu Lab A1, including surface quality, strength, print time, material usage, and overall workflow impact.

If you’ve ever wondered whether upgrading your nozzle size is worth it — this is for you.

Quick Answer: What’s the Best Nozzle Size?

• 0.4 mm nozzle → Best for fine detail and small models

• 0.6 mm nozzle → Best balance of strength, speed, and detail

• 0.8 mm nozzle → Best for large prints and maximum strength

But the real answer depends on what you print.

Let’s break it down.

Test Setup: How We Compared Nozzle Sizes

To ensure a fair comparison:

• Same printer: Bambu Lab A1

• Same filament

• Same slicer settings

• Same room temperature

• Same orientation

• Only variable changed: nozzle size

We tested:

• Calibration cube

• Benchy

• High-detail goblin head model

• Custom bridge strength test (measured in Newtons)

• Print time

• Material usage

• Cost

The nozzles used were hardened steel Panda Juicer hotends from BIQU (unscripted, independent testing as always).

Surface Quality: Does Bigger Nozzle Mean Worse Detail?

0.4 mm Nozzle (Standard)

• Cleanest layer definition

• Smoothest finish

• Best micro-detail

• Minimal visible layer lines

This is why 0.4 mm is the industry standard.

If you print miniatures, cosplay details, small mechanical parts, or textured models — this is still king.

0.6 mm Nozzle

• Slightly more visible layer lines

• Minor texture increase

• Detail still very acceptable

• Noticeable but not dramatic loss

For most functional prints? You likely won’t care.

For detailed figurines? You might.

This is where things start getting interesting.

0.8 mm Nozzle

• Layer lines clearly visible

• Texture much more noticeable

• Fine detail begins to soften

• Best for functional parts, not display pieces

It’s not bad — it’s just different.

You’re trading micro-detail for strength and speed.

Strength Test Results (Measured in Newtons)

We used a custom bridge test and a calibrated force meter.

Nozzle Size	Force to Break
0.4 mm	28 N
0.6 mm	39 N
0.8 mm	51 N

 

The 0.8 mm nozzle required 51 Newtons to break.

That’s over 22 Newtons stronger than the 0.4 mm print.

Not quite double — but very close.

Why?

Because larger nozzles:

• Extrude thicker lines

• Increase layer bonding

• Reduce weak internal seams

• Improve structural integrity

If strength matters — nozzle size matters.

Print Speed Comparison

Full test set results:

Switching from 0.4 mm to 0.8 mm saved ~1 hour and 40 minutes.

That’s a massive time reduction.

Yes, material use increased slightly — but time is often more valuable than filament cost.

Especially if you’re running a print farm or printing large functional parts.

Does a Bigger Nozzle Use More Filament?

Usually, yes — but not always significantly.

In our Benchy-only test:

• 0.8 mm was actually slightly cheaper than 0.4 mm

• Used less than 1 gram difference

Slicer estimation variance exists, but overall:

• Larger nozzles may increase material use

• But they dramatically decrease print time

It’s a tradeoff.

Download the Nozzle Guides:

3D Printer Nozzle Comparison Cost Guide - https://makerbuildit.com/products/free-download-3d-printer-nozzle-comparison-guide
3D Printer Nozzle Comparison Guide - https://makerbuildit.com/products/3d-printer-nozzle-guide

When Should You Use a 0.6 mm Nozzle?

This might be the sweet spot.

Choose 0.6 mm if you:

• Want faster prints

• Need stronger parts

• Print mechanical components

• Don’t need ultra-fine detail

• Print large props

• Use abrasive filaments (carbon fiber, glow, wood)

It’s the best balance of speed, strength, and detail.

Many makers switch to 0.6 mm and never go back.

When Should You Use a 0.8 mm Nozzle?

Go 0.8 mm if:

• You print large objects regularly

• You prioritize strength over cosmetics

• You need maximum layer bonding

• You want drastically faster print times

• You print thick-walled structural parts

This is a functional powerhouse.

Not a miniature nozzle.

When Should You Stick With 0.4 mm?

Stick with 0.4 mm if:

• You print detailed models

• You care about smooth surfaces

• You print miniatures or display pieces

• You want predictable default profiles

It’s still incredibly capable.

It’s just not always optimal.

The Real Question: Have You Been Underusing Your Printer?

Most printers ship with 0.4 mm nozzles because they’re safe.

But safe doesn’t always mean optimal.

Changing nozzle size:

• Changes extrusion width

• Changes strength

• Changes cooling behavior

• Changes print time

• Changes workflow

It’s not just a number.

It’s a strategy shift.

🛠 Gear Used in This Video (Some links below are affiliate links. If you use them, it helps support the channel at no extra cost to you — and we truly appreciate it.)
🔥 BIQU Panda Juicer SFC Hotend – Hardened Steel (Used in This Test)
0.4 mm Hardened Steel Nozzle - https://amzn.to/4tYUAaB
0.6 mm & 0.8 mm Hardened Steel Nozzle - https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-juicer-hotend-standard-flow-with-0-4mm-hardened-steel-nozzle-for-bambu-lab-a1-a1-mini-h2d
🖨 Bambu Lab A1 3D Printer - https://amzn.to/46vjipf
🧵 PLA Filament - https://amzn.to/4tZ9JJ9
💪 Digital Force Gauge - https://amzn.to/4cOQHPo
🥽 Safety Glasses (Because we test things properly) - https://amzn.to/4aE9snn

 

Final Verdict: Which Nozzle Size Is Best?

There isn’t one “best” nozzle size.

There’s only the best nozzle for your project.

If you print:

• Miniatures → 0.4 mm

• Props & cosplay → 0.6 mm

• Functional parts → 0.8 mm

• Large structural prints → 0.8 mm

• All-around use → 0.6 mm

 Every serious maker should own at least three nozzle sizes.