How to Turn a 3D Model into a Wearable Silicone Mask Using a 3D-Printed Mold

How to Turn a 3D Model into a Wearable Silicone Mask Using a 3D-Printed Mold

Sometimes a project starts with a perfectly reasonable idea—and then immediately goes off the rails.

This one started with a 3D-modeled goblin head and ended with a wearable silicone mask that may or may not anger a goblin council.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to take a 3D model, turn it into a 3D-printed mold, and cast it using Dragon Skin 10 silicone to create a flexible, wearable mask. This is beginner-friendly if you already have basic 3D modeling and printing experience—and yes, I learned a few things the hard way so you don’t have to.

What You’ll Need

Software

  • Nomad Sculpt (or any 3D modeling software that supports boolean operations) - https://nomadsculpt.com/

  • Bambu Studio or your slicer of choice

Materials


• Dragon Skin 10 - https://amzn.to/4jpMEut
• Mold release - https://amzn.to/4aqD7Rc
• 3D Printers - https://amzn.to/44A971y
• PLA filament - https://amzn.to/4p4OJNk
• Vinyl gloves (NOT latex) - https://amzn.to/4jpMRxL
• Digital scale - https://amzn.to/4j6crr3
• 1" Brushes - https://amzn.to/4qmjgHG
• Clamps - https://amzn.to/45g5HRK

Optional (but helpful)

  • Crayola Model Magic or air-dry clay (for test fitting)

  • Dental tools or sculpting tools

  • X-Acto knife

Step 1: Prepare Your 3D Model

Start with a finished 3D model. In this case, it’s a goblin head, but the process works for any mask-style sculpt.

  1. Open Nomad Sculpt

  2. Delete the default sphere

  3. Import your 3D model

  4. Remove everything except the head

    (Yes, this feels morally questionable—but it’s necessary.)

At this stage, make sure the model is:

  • Watertight

  • Scaled to wearable size

  • Clean of unnecessary geometry

Step 2: Create the Mold Block

  1. Add a box to the scene

    • Example: 256 × 256 mm

    • Height: ~128 mm (Z-axis)

      Scale it to roughly the size of your printer bed

       

  2. Position the goblin head inside the box

Pro Tip:

Lower the box opacity so you can see how the head sits inside. This helps visualize wall thickness and final mold depth.

Step 3: Create the Negative Mold

  1. Hide the goblin model

  2. Keep the box visible

  3. Perform a boolean subtraction / remesh

What you’re left with is a negative imprint of your model—this is your mold.

Step 4: Test Print a Mini Mold (Highly Recommended)

Before committing to a full-size mold:

  1. Scale the mold down

  2. Print a small test version

  3. Press air-dry clay into the mold

This step helps identify:

  • Undercuts

  • Release issues

  • Deep details (like noses and eye sockets)

If the clay doesn’t release easily—that’s your warning sign.

Step 5: Decide on One-Piece vs Two-Piece Mold

One-Piece Mold

Pros

  • Cleaner final cast

  • Fewer seams

Cons

  • Harder to demold

  • Higher risk of tearing silicone

Two-Piece Mold (Recommended for Beginners)

  1. Use your slicer’s cut tool

  2. Split the mold in half

  3. Add keys and cuts so the halves align

  4. Print both halves

This dramatically improves demolding and reduces stress on the silicone.

Step 6: Print the Final Mold

  • Print with standard PLA

  • Use thicker walls and higher infill

  • Clean up any stringing or defects

Before casting:

  • Dry fit the mold halves

  • Clamp them together

  • Check for light leaks

Step 7: Apply Mold Release

Do not skip this.

  1. Spray a light coat inside the mold

  2. Let it dry (~2 minutes)

  3. Apply a second coat

  4. Let it dry again

This step makes demolding much easier—especially for detailed sculpts.

Step 8: Mix Dragon Skin 10

Important Notes

  • Do NOT use latex gloves

    Latex can inhibit curing. Use vinyl gloves.

  • Dragon Skin 10 is a 1:1 mix by weight

Steps:

  1. Measure Part A and Part B using a digital scale

  2. Combine into a mixing cup

  3. Mix thoroughly for 3 minutes

Step 9: Brush in the Silicone

Instead of pouring:

  1. Use a brush

  2. Paint a thin layer inside the mold

  3. Focus on deep details first

  4. Let it set slightly

  5. Apply additional layers

This method:

  • Saves material

  • Reduces bubbles

  • Creates a wearable thickness

Dragon Skin 10 (Medium) cures in ~5 hours.

Step 10: Demolding

After curing overnight:

One-Piece Mold

  • Demold slowly

  • Be careful around thin areas

  • Expect more resistance

Two-Piece Mold

  • Remove clamps

  • Separate halves

  • Silicone should release easily

Both methods work—but the two-piece mold is far less stressful.

Step 11: Cleanup and Fit

  • Trim flashing and seams

  • Add eye slits and breathing holes

  • Test fit carefully

At this point, you have a flexible silicone goblin mask that is:

  • Creepy ✔

  • Wearable ✔

  • Deeply unsettling ✔

This project took a 3D model and turned it into something real, squishy, and undeniably goblin-adjacent. Dragon Skin 10 worked beautifully, mold release was absolutely worth it, and the two-part mold proved to be the most beginner-friendly option.

Should this mask exist?

That’s between you and the High Goblin Council.

And remember:

If your project looks wrong halfway through, you’re probably doing it right.
Back to blog